Amy's visit to Phinda Homestead: Phinda Resource Reserve; Kwa-Zulu Natal; South Africa
“From the minute we arrived at Phinda Resource Reserve’s gate to the minute we left, we felt like royalty! We were welcomed at Phinda Vlei Lodge by our wonderful butler, Bheki. His charm, friendliness and commitment to service excellence really made our stay count!
Phinda Vlei is located in the north of the reserve, set on the edge of a forest, overlooking an open meadow (or vlei). Complete with watering hole, this wildlife playground brings your game encounters up close and personal. On our second morning, we were enjoying our early morning coffee on the main deck when Karin spotted a resident genet scampering down one of the trees in front of the main deck area. How special!
Our suite was suitably plush and luxuriously appointed; with all the amenities you would expect from an &Beyond premier lodge. We made the most of our time here. I took a refreshing dip in our sizeable private plunge pool, whilst Karin languished on our generous deck, drink in hand, spotting game drifting by in front of our suite. Ah, this is the life!
We enjoyed two game experiences during our stay. In the afternoon of our first day we enjoyed a game drive. Our field guide, Martin, was fantastic in every way. Josiah, our tracker, used his keen eyes to locate the game from his vantage point, seated on very front of the game viewing vehicle. We spotted Elephant, Black & White rhino, herd of buffalo and good general game.
The next morning Martin and Josiah took us Rhino tracking on foot. After about 2 km of walking we finally saw a female white rhino and her calf. The tracking felt very safe. We were only 4 guests and the ranger with a rifle in the front and our tracker in the back. Martin gave us a good safety briefing before we took off and constantly kept us in check to ensure we were adhering to his strict safety code.
An area where Phinda Vlei lodge excells is its cuisine. A couple of highlights to mention was our lunch on the deck the afternoon we arrived and our bush breakfast the following morning. Our lunch was served on the deck in the warm African sun and killer views of the surrounding vlei. Bheki explained each course’s options to us in detail. We had a choice of two starters; green pea gazpachio with freshly baked herb and parmesan bread; blanched asparagus salad with parmesan shavings and olive oil dressing washed down with crisp Sauvignon Blanc housewine. Main course was pan fried fillet of Kingklip or grilled chicken kebabs each served on a bed of julienne veggies and noodles with a herb pesto. Simply delicious! Dessert was homemade coffee icecream which just made the entire meal!
After our exhilarating bush walk we all clambered back into the vehicle, eager to get back to camp. My tummy was rumbling in anticipation of my breakfast waiting for me at the lodge. Suddenly, Martin exclaimed that he had just received a call on his radio about a bushfire not far away. He asked desperately if we would help him to put the fire out. We nodded rapidly and swallowed hard! He screeched the vehicle to a halt and leapt out of the vehicle, urgently picking branches large enough for us to swat the flames with. Jumping back into the vehicle, he put foot in the direction of the imminent natural disaster. Karin and I looked at one another, wide eyed and tight lipped.
What greeted us was quite contrary to a bushfire raging out of control! True to form, Martin burst out laughing as he ushered us toward a fabulous breakfast banquet set up in a beautiful enclave of the bushveld. A delicious cold buffet of freshly baked muffins, bread, salami, cheese, tropical fruit, cereals, yoghurt, preserves was laid out invitingly.
The raging blaze he spoke of was in fact the open fire upon which the smiling cook was preparing our cooked breakfast on! This consisted of bacon skewers, boerewors (a traditional South African beef sausage), scrambled eggs, fried onions, mushrooms, tomato, toast made to order on the hot “braai” grill. Bucks fizz, sparkling wine, fruit juice, tea or very delicious strong coffee was also available to compliment the meal. Here’s to Martin’s antics and a memorable bushfire!
Phinda Resource Reserve has a variety of lodges each with a specific theme to suit different kinds of upmarket clientele seeking a definitive safari experience. Phinda Vlei, Phinda Forest Lodge, Phinda Rock Lodge, Phinda Mountain Lodge aswell as two exclusive use villas called Phinda Zuka Lodge and The Homestead. Each of these exclusive use villas sleep just eight persons and offer the ultimate private safari experience in terms of beautiful interiors, gracious service and complete flexibility.
Amy's visit to Thonga Beach Lodge: Mabibi; Maputaland – Kwazulu-Natal; South Africa
We all know going on safari is hard work! The early mornings and congenial, late nights around a blazing fire can leave you feeling a little haggard. Cue the natural extension of any safari…the beach break. Thonga Beach Lodge in Mabibi is the perfect answer to a beach holiday. This gem is situated on the remote north coast of Kwa-Zulu Natal, South Africa’s most tropical province. Mabibi is where you can rest your bones on a sandy, endless beach, frolic in the waves, take in some snorkeling on the reef in front of the lodge or take a boat out to dive the nearby coral reefs.
The drive from Phinda to Thonga was an easy one. The roads are good and the signage clear. Alternatively, a light charter transfer can skip you across from Phinda to the Manzengwenya airstrip in no time at all. From there it’s only a 20 minutes drive to the lodge. The meeting point for those traveling to Thonga is a place called Coastal Cashews. For the duration of your stay at Thonga, you park your car securely on the premises of a working cashew nut factory. A 4 x 4 transfer is then arranged to take you to Thonga Beach Lodge.
We were met by Eugene, our driver at Coastal Cashew car park. He beamed as he greeted us warmly, ‘Hello! Welcome to Paradise’! We smiled and shook his outstretched hand and thanked him. We drove approximately an hour on a sandy road to the lodge. The transfer is a pleasant drive in an open vehicle and a great way to see the surrounding area. We passed through massive plantations, waved at the local villagers and dodged stubborn Nguni cattle that planted themselves firmly in the middle of the road. These livestock are a highly prized commodity of the Thonga people. Be warned. Don’t even attempt to “com-moo-nicate.” Their hard stares and long horns are a formidable deterrent.
As we approached the steep hill leading down the road to Thonga Beach Lodge, Eugene stopped at the top of it to engage the differential lock on the 4x4. We looked around and suddenly all we saw was an explosion of colour as countless butterflies came floating past us on the tropical breeze. The sound of the waves of crashing on the shore below us reached our ears. We couldn’t wait to get down there!
When we arrived, we were greeted by one of the managing couples Chris and Ilana. Ilana took us through the lodge orientation and check in. She also discussed our activity options for the next day and presented us each with a surprise voucher for the popular Sea Spa.
We stayed in a non-seafacing room which had a beautiful view of the tropical forest garden which was simply teeming with butterflies, monkeys and interesting birds. The sound of the waves peppered with laughter from happy guests frolicking in the waves served as the perfect background ‘music’. Our room itself was built in a rondavel shape with a traditional thatched roof, high ceilings, aircon, ceiling fan, mini bar, tea & coffee station, writing station, telephone, bath, shower, double vanity and separate wc. We also had a balcony with a set of chairs and a table. We felt the room was spacious and comfortable.
The food was a real highlight! Our breakfast was simply fabulous with individual tables set with vibrant organza overlays adding a tropical feeling. Fresh fruit platters with a variety of sweet, beautifully presented melon, citrus and other fruit. A selection of fresh fruit juices looked very inviting and fresh. There was a smoothie on offer aswell as a variety of cereals, freshly baked double chocolate muffins, yoghurt and a cooked breakfast to order. Filter coffee was freshly brewed and rounded the meal off perfectly.
Lunch was a memorable meal indeed. A buffet style lunch with freshly prepared salad selection; lamb, cucumber and peppadew salad, coleslaw, roasted pear, asparagus, goats cheese, bacon and rosa tomatos, cold cuts of stuffed pork and roast beef served with a tangy mayo & chutney dressing. Freshly baked bread, cheese and fruit platter aswell.
Dinner was set up inside as they were afraid it would rain (as per the weather forecast) but the doors were all wide open so it felt very airy and balmy. The menu was displayed at the bar area in the afternoon so we could mull over selection before dinner. A nice touch was that they even suggested a pre-dinner cocktail which would compliment the meal nicely. We met for pre-dinner drinks in the bar at 7pm and enjoyed some bar snacks and light conversation before proceeding to the dining area. We also had an opportunity to peruse the menu for the evening as it was chalked up on a little blackboard. A lovely touch was the recommended cocktail for the evening which would compliment the flavours of meal.
We chose our table (again, individually set up). The table service was friendly and relaxed. Starter was a choice of either Mexican beef soup or Crepe with Ementhale cheese, caramelized onion and tomato concasse – superb! Main course was a choice of roast pork with seasonal vegetables or Seafood curry with basmati rice and poppadums. Dessert was a baked chocolate crème brulee topped with strawberry ice-cream. The consistency and flavour of the chocolate pudding was fabulous. One of the best we had tasted.
Thonga Beach Lodge crept deep into our hearts and will always hold a very special place there. Imagine a getaway nestled within a verdant coastal forest on a beautifully wild coastline. Imagine a welcome by warm, friendly people and imagine genuine, relaxed South African hospitality. It isn’t five star Mauritius, but an authentically African beach lodge experience where those seeking a remote place to escape the pressures of modern life will find that Thonga Beach Lodge is a perfect fit. Put this place on your Bucketlist!
Sussi's visit to Chiawa Camp, Zambezi, Zambia
On arrival at Chiawa Camp, we were met by the jetty by Jason who gave us a very comprehensive introduction, whilst enjoying a cold drink in the main area. We were to have arrived in time for lunch, and it’s a shame we didn’t as we were apparently going to be treated to a lunch on the River, all on our own! Jason’s wife, Michaela, is a lovely person and the two of them are the perfect couple for Chiawa; this camp has a very big heart and needs warm and natural people to head it up.
Our superior tented room was very spacious and tastefully decorated; a lot of solid dark wood, and with everything you need. Across the dry river bed we spotted elephants and hippos as soon as we had put our bags down; bliss! Later that afternoon we enjoyed high tea before embarking on our boat cruise with Derek. There isn’t quite anything like it; gently cruising down the Zambezi River surrounded by hazy mountain ranges, hippo pods and along the shoreline; breeding elephant herds…oh, and of course the call of a fish eagle up above…just heavenly! Our cruise ended with a sundowner at a specially chosen spot on the river bank; delicious spring rolls were washed down with chilled white wine.
Chiawa Camp’s owner, Grant Cummings joined us for a surprise bush dinner, which was lovely. The set up was amazing; lanterns hanging from the dry river walls, candles everywhere and the excitement among all the guests was tangible. A proper “loo” tent had been set up, a bar and soon the chef and his team appeared, singing beautifully. The chef and cooks then introduced us to each and every pot around the open fire, and the braai served was absolutely delicious.
Chiawa is such a well run camp, where nothing seems to be a problem, and this is because everyone seems to know where to be and what to do, and when! The variety of activities, the caliber of guides and total flexibility make for a first rate safari experience. Every single guest we have sent to Chiawa has come back with rave reviews; I feel it is because this is a family run camp where the focus remains on what is important – service excellence and truly African hospitality!
Sussi's visit to Kulefu Camp, Zambezi, Zambia
On arrival at Zambezi Kulefu Camp I was blown away by the scenic beauty of the location of the camp. It’s right on the water’s edge, in front is a channel, an island where elephant feed, then the mighty Zambezi and beyond is Zimbabwe. The camp has recently been rebuilt and what meets you is a cool, contemporary and extremely tasteful mix of muted colours, traditional safari feel and modern, sophisticated touches. The management couple, George and Merle, are from South Africa and sat down with us for a comprehensive introduction and orientation of the camp. Kulefu has only been open for one season i.e. since April this year, and it feels new and fresh. There are seven tents with plans to build a further 2-3 next year. The tents are superb; spacious and very attractive with hints of red to brighten up the pale creams and whites. Each tent has a generous outdoor area with loungers.
Lunch was a veritable feast, presented in a stylish and simplistic way; tomato & cucumber salad, egg & avo salad, artichokes, spring rolls and pork stir fry. Delicious homemade bread…I had to have seconds of everything! The maître d’ was Kilian who has a lovely smile and is brilliant…very attentive and enthusiastic.
After lunch I spent time by the pool, which was in fact the only sane place to be, it was so hot even the two fans in my tent couldn’t cool the room down. What bliss to have some time out and just relax watching the elephant herd on the island across the small channel munch their way through the grass before swimming across to the mainland!
Later that afternoon, we were offered several activities and chose the combination of a boat trip and a game drive. We met up with the head guide Simeon, an utterly charming Zimbabwean with many years experience under his belt; what an asset to Kulefu! During our activities, it was Prince who looked after us. He is a very confident, jovial and interested guide. We witnessed a breeding herd of elephant swim across the river, and I learned that the little babies are squeezed between two large cows who actually carry it across, whilst it uses its little trunk as a snorkel to breathe. I won’t harp on about the boat trip; my soul feels it belongs when I am on the Zambezi River, what can I say? The night drive was rewarding although the recently spotted lions and leopards kept their distance. We did, however, see enough genets to make up a whole leopard, or so Prince told us! The highlight was seeing a massive hippo running in the wrong direction, then making a complete U-turn, all at the impressive speed of 40km/hour!
When we returned to the lodge and we felt we did not want to go back to our tent before dinner. Instead, we enjoyed a delicious glass of wine and snacks whilst chatting to Simeon, who joined us for dinner. Before sitting down, Kilian with the help of his friend and a large torch, read out the menu which included 2 choices of starters, 2 main course and either crème caramel or a cheese platter. The table setting was quite exquisite and the food simply delectable!
After a very good night’s sleep (heavenly bed linen and pillows) we enjoyed a delicious breakfast and good coffee before Prince transferred us by road to Jeki for our flight to Lusaka.
Amy's visit to Hillsnek Safaris
We were greeted by at least four staff members upon arrival and were checked in by a very professional yet friendly gentleman. We got the impression that there is a high staff to guest ratio at Lion Sands and coming from the smaller camps we found it a little overwhelming at first.
Lion Sands River Lodge (official grading 4-star game lodge) is situated on the banks of a dry river bed with the Sabie River flowing just on the other side of this. There are two viewing decks which have been added since I stayed there last in January 2005. The lodge has twenty rooms built in sets of two linked by raised boardwalks. The camp is unfenced and does not accept children under the age of 12 years. The rooms have an indoor, outdoor shower and a little outside deck area which may only be used during the day due to the possibility of wild animals roaming the area.
The public areas are spacious and décor style is contemporary African with the emphasis on outdoor dining. There is an outdoor lounge overlooking the river and an indoor bar/lounge area with a wonderful fireplace. The only pity about this area is the television which was on rather loud when we came in for pre-dinner drinks and really did nothing to enhance the tranquil and relaxed atmosphere. We asked for it to be switched off and were then told that it is only used for major sporting events. I would prefer that the TV be moved to another locale as it really defeats the object of getting away into the bush.
During our pre-dinner drinks we were introduced to Rodnick, our waitron/butler who would look after us during our stay. This is quite significant as it really makes a difference in terms of personal touch in such a large lodge. We enjoyed dinner outdoors on the main deck and it was chilly, though they provided blankets for each guest. I would suggest adding gas heaters to take the bite out of the air in winter. So, guests must dress warmly! The dinner was a plated affair with a choice of starters, main course and dessert. We had Rodnick plus one or two gentleman checking on us rather regularly. Service-minded for sure!
Breakfast the next morning was phenomenal with the selection on the cold buffet offering all sorts exotic delights such as smoothies, quiche, cupcakes, fruit, cold meats, cheeses, mackerel, smoked salmon, pickles etc…it was cleverly covered by a romantic looking netted marquee to keep the bugs away…our table however was the hive of activity with honey bees visiting us regularly.
Our game viewing experience was really not on a par with the other reserves. We did follow an old female leopard off road as well as a middle aged elephant bull. We saw three well-fed lions, one of the males just languishing in the afternoon sun, one putting on a really good show for us – yawning, stretching and the female lion took the lead flashing its razor-sharp teeth at us…yikes! Our guide, Wynand, has not had too much experience in the Sabi Sand and relied on Bheki, our experienced tracker & they made a very good team. Wynand’s guide ethics were good- he warned us about sharp branches and drove very well on and offroad. He is knowledgeable and has a lot of potential.
Our visit to Ivory Lodge did not allow us to view a room as the 12-bed lodge was fully booked. The soft furnishings have been re-done in the rooms now offering a more contemporary look. The main areas have had some changes ie. Meeting room has been converted to another lounge and there is a wine cellar. This lodge oozes sophistication and is perfect for the discerning client.
An exciting addition to the Lion Sands lodges is the 1933 at Lion Sands Family Villa which will sleep 8 guests and have room for au-pair, butler etc. Private chef, vehicle included and it promises to be an extremely upmarket and exclusive experience…due to open this summer. It will only be used in season as off-season it will be used for the More family alone.
The extra special touches at Lion Sands really set it apart in its class ie. turn down, warm cloths on offer after every game drive, more than one staff member calls you by your first name reinforcing the personalized nature and service-minded attitude of the staff. I got the impression that the staff are well taken care of and well trained- it shows as there is a real family atmosphere amongst them and there is a low staff turnover.
I was pleased to note that the level of service has been maintained since my last visit and in fact the constant improvements to the property ensure that it will remain at the top of the log amongst its peers.
I would certainly recommend River Lodge for the discerning 4-star client & Ivory Lodge as a true 5-star.
Amy’s visit to Oliver’s Restaurant & Lodge
17 June 2007
We left Lion Sands at around 1pm and made our way south towards White River where we would be staying at Oliver’s Restaurant & Lodge (official graded luxury by the ASA & Superior by AA Travel Awards). It is owner-managed though we did not meet Tanja or Oliver during our stay. The grounds are very well maintained and the property is neat as a pin. The décor is fresh and county-living style and great care has been taken to ensure everything is just so! We had large en-suite bathroom with corner bath, separate shower, heated towel rails, plenty cupboard space and separate wc & bidet. The beds can be made up as twin or king, and each room has a seating area and spacious patio. There was a fully stocked mini-bar, complimentary tea/coffee and sherry in the rooms, turndown service, fireplace, TV/Stereo and a DVD library on offer.
The property also has a wellness centre with two charming treatment rooms. The restaurant is very popular with locals and is closed on Sunday and Monday for dinner and Monday for lunch- this is something to note for our clients.
This property has a warm and inviting feel to it and we found our very comfortable. It is suitable for families & couples (young & mature) alike as it appeals to a wide spectrum of clients. It offers a high quality experience & the attention to detail sets it apart.
Amy’s visit to Makweti Safari Lodge
11 June 2007
We left Thakadu River Camp at 09h45 and drove in a north-easterly direction towards the Welgevonden Reserve. It took us four hours (225 kms) to travel to the main gate where we left our car and met our guide Glenn for our transfer to Makweti Safari Lodge (officially graded 5-star game lodge). We were rather apprehensive about the state of the road but we were pleasantly surprised. Suggest clients skip the morning game activity, depart by latest 08h30 to allow sufficient time to arrive at the main gate by 1pm for the scheduled lodge transfer. We arrived after 30 to 45 minutes which can be counted a mini game experience as it is within the reserve. This we found a great start to our stay not having to drive the extra on a rather unforgiving gravel road.
Upon arrival Karen, the lodge manager (Glenn’s wife) came to greet us and check us in. We were shown to our suites which are built of brick & mortar, thatch and wood…they are spacious and offer most amenities you would expect of a five star lodge. The feel of this 10-bed camp is intimate, understated and certainly relaxed with Glenn and Karen contributing to the family feel.
The lodge’s location offers spectacular views of the gorge below and a perfect vantage point is the natural rockpool-like swimming pool. A different feature of Makweti is that they have a separate ‘reception lodge’ which is set apart from the main lodge area. It houses a curio shop, lounge area, wc facilities, lounge area and viewing deck. Set in front of the reception area, there is a waterhole which is the hive of activity for game in the morning and afternoon. We saw some spectacular interaction between with a dazzle of zebra, troop of baboon, warthog and a rather large male rhino!
The main lodge consists of a restaurant, bar, guest wc, viewing deck and boma area. We certainly enjoyed the food and great hospitality of Glenn and Karen. An interesting aspect to the service is that we never saw/met any other hospitality staff. Glenn and Karen do everything from making you tea to serving you drinks at the bar to waiting your table. Communal dining is encouraged and adds to the intimate atmosphere. The camp does not accept children under age of 13 years and is unfenced. The walkways are not raised off the ground.
Our game experiences here offered plentiful general game viewing with an awesome of sighting of a herd of elephant at sunset – big bull, mom, teen and two babies one of which was just one month old…rare and very special. On our way to the gate we saw two gorgeous young male lions (around 4 years old) lazing in the shade. This clocked our big five count in the reserve to four of the big five …elephant, rhino, buffalo and lion. The ecosystems in the reserve are diverse and offer an interesting backdrop for any visitor. Personally, we preferred the terrain to that of Madikwe for its beauty and variety.
The food here lives up to the Chaine de Rotisseurs membership. Inventive, well presented and tasty – portions are good. Lunch is buffet style consisting of two-courses, whereas dinner was three-courses and plated cuisine.
Need I say more – whether clients are on a romantic break or a few friends traveling together; a very special recipe here which boils down to impeccable management? Well worth a visit.
Amy’s visit to Thakadu River Camp
9 June 2007
Upon arrival we were greeted warmly by Patrick our tracker who took us to the main lodge area. Albert Segoe, the lodge manager, was waiting to meet us and check us in. Jacqueline, the assistant manager, took us for orientation of the lodge. The lodge is 100% community owned and it was good to experience the spirit of upliftment.
We arrived after 3 hours (265 kms). The lodge has twelve rooms and is family friendly offering two family suites (maximum one child under 12 years sharing with parents). The camp is however not fenced and the walkways are not elevated – good to remember when selling the camp to families.
They are in the process developing a special childrens programme with a fenced play garden, babysitting services plus game and tv room. Note the pool is not fenced off and parents are liable for children’s safety at all times.
The accommodation, being tented is rather open to the elements…even with aircon on 30 degrees celcius and electrical blankets on maximum, we almost froze! The dining area has canvas drops but has doorways open all time (kitchen and guest wc) which allows the cold air to circulate despite two roaring fires (hogged the plentiful amount of waitering and security staff) and gas heaters…brrr! This is largely due to its situation in the valley and on the banks of the Groot Marico river.
We found the food simple yet of a very good standard, with excellent variety, presentation and fresh quality. The lodge offers individual dining for all meals; all meals are plated except the continental breakfast buffet which is self-service.
During our afternoon and morning game drives we saw excellent general game with the help of our guide Tsulu and Patrick’s skills. No off-roading allowed which makes it interesting finding game when it is this cold…of the big five we saw rhino, elephant and buffalo.
Thakadu River Camp runs very smoothly for a camp that has not even been open a year yet & is certainly a quality product & is well worth booking. It is not really geared up for the family market as yet but is a beautiful camp.
Amy’s visit to Birkenhead House
30 April 2005
Upon arrival we were warmly met by the manageress on duty, Zinia. Ice-cold lavender scented face towels & champagne cocktails refreshed us and we felt instantly at home as we were taken on a tour of the house to familiarize ourselves with all the facilities’ whereabouts.
The house has a stately and grandiose atmosphere and is furnished in colonial style reminiscent of the 1930’s but with a fresh, modern twist. At Birkenhead House, you will find every conceivable luxury and amenity to make your stay as comfortable & pleasant as possible. Complete with gym and wellness centre to take care of your fitness and stress levels in this spectacular setting.
Our room had partial sea views from the balcony from which we witnessed a spectacular sunset scene. The ever friendly and courteous staff are immaculately dressed in casual but stylish attire; ready and waiting to make your African beach-house dream a reality.
Important to note: The pools are not heated due to regular power cuts in the Voelklip area. No undercover parking available, though parking is off-street with security. The house is situated next to a public parking area which can get noisy (car’s stereo systems & traffic) which can detract from the tranquil atmosphere.
The essence of Birkenhead House is the barefoot luxury & pampering the guests receive!
Amy’s visit to Blaauwbosch
11 July 2005
This is a four hour drive door to door and the closest town is Port Alfred. We arrived at Pekelfontein Farm where we left our sedan vehicle and met Andy, our game ranger, who had come to collect us in the Landrover game vehicle which seats 10 people in bucket seats (including the field guide).